Wing Yau, the designer of the Brooklyn-based jewellery brand Wwake, has been championing the chunky ring movement for nearly a decade. Photo: Instagram/Wwake
When it came time to choose a ring for her wedding in June, Isabel Albee, an event producer from New York, wanted something that wasn’t too fussy, maybe even a simple gold band.
Her husband suggested working with Danica Stamenic, a jewellery designer based in Los Angeles, who was one of his high school friends.
She is known for her thicker, custom-made rings.
Albee, 30, found Stamenic’s signet rings a reflection of her own style in jewellery: chunky, sporty and durable.
“Signet rings are more casual, comfortable, and I’m not worried about hitting it, snagging it, or breaking it,” she said.
After creating a mood board and choosing a stone, Stamenic crafted a yellow gold signet ring with a brown diamond and a wave detail at the back.
It served as both an engagement ring and a wedding band.
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Many couples are opting for chunkier rings, which can be pricier than their thinner-band counterparts because of the amount of precious metals used.
Jewellers say that demand has risen since singer Dua Lipa showed off her chunky diamond engagement ring from actor Callum Turner.
She first shared a photo of the ring in December 2024, but didn’t confirm her engagement until June.
“These rings are taking off thanks to social media and Dua Lipa,” said David Steinmetz, a jeweler in New York City.
“Couples want something that reflects their personal style. But the look isn’t new – it originated in the Victorian era. It’s really just a modern rebrand.”
Though Victorian rings are often associated with intricate floral designs, tastes had shifted by the 1880s.
“Thicker bands with flush-set stones became popular thanks to new industrial tools and more active lifestyles,” said Paige Rubin, a fashion historian based in New York and founder of Taste Studio in Los Angeles.
“Women were horseback riding, cycling, playing tennis. These rings were stylish but practical.”
The resurgence of chunky rings reflects the current appetite for understated luxury, according to Rubin.
“The gold and chunky shape stand out, but with the stones flush mount, they are at the same time more subtle,” she said.
“The rings are, therefore, both ostentatious and blingy while at the same time pared back and minimal with clean lines.”
Emily Carmeli, a cultural strategist and professor at Parsons School of Design, said the shift to a chunkier aesthetic reflected the way younger consumers express status.
“A big stone isn’t the ultimate flex anymore,” she said. “Now it’s about showing your style.”
Chunkier rings, she said, allow for more creativity and self-expression, which resonates with Gen-Z brides who want their jewellery to feel personal, not just expensive.
“Status today is more about intention and taste than cost,” Carmeli said.
For Stamenic, the appeal is both emotional and tactile.
“Once you’ve felt a solid piece of gold on your hand, it’s hard to go back to something dainty,” she said.
Her designs draw from ancient and midcentury jewellery, as well as from the vintage silver she once collected. Many clients prefer rings that don’t feel like a delicate afterthought.
“These rings aren’t just beautiful, they’re grounding and built to last,” she said.
Wing Yau, the designer of the Brooklyn-based jewellery brand Wwake, has been championing the chunky ring movement for nearly a decade.
“I designed our first cigar band style ring in 2016,” she said. “But I held onto it until 2018. I didn’t think people were ready yet.”
Wwake has since become a go-to for sculptural rings, with custom sales currently up by 27% over last year.
“Our clients often don’t see themselves in traditional bridal jewelry,” Yau said. “They want something simple, powerful and a little unexpected.”
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Many are drawn to Wwake’s nongender silhouette styles.
“We make jewellery for people who don’t think they like jewelry,” Yau said.
Isabel Campbell, 31, a digital designer based in New York, said a chunky band felt like the most authentic choice when she got engaged in June.
“I’ve always gravitated toward thicker bands and gold,” she said. “It just felt more me.”
After visiting traditional jewellers and coming up short, she and her fiance worked with Wwake to design a thick, custom ring using her mother’s heirloom diamond.
“When people see it,” she said, “They always say, ‘I’ve never seen a ring like that.’”
Karoline Bolt, whose business, Bye Gones NYC, repurposes vintage and men’s rings into custom pieces, sees chunky styles as both a return and a rebellion.
“I feel like it’s the shoulder pads of jewellery,” she said. “Women want to take up more space; they don’t want to be delicate and sweet.” – ©2025 The New York Times Company
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
